On the Middle Ganga

( 3 Nights )

On the Middle Ganga

(Prayagraj to Varanasi or its shorter version from Chunar to Varanasi)

Devotees bathing in the Ganga at Prayagraj during a sacred river ritual.

Between Prayagraj (earlier named Allahabad) to Varanasi, an alternative route exists that unveils a profound essence of life: a passage along the river. This Prayagraj to Varanasi river cruise along the Middle Ganga offers travellers a rare opportunity to experience India’s spiritual and cultural heritage from the water.  This extraordinary voyage connects two of India’s most sacred cities, interwoven by the sacred Ganga (River Ganges).

Thanks to the meandering course of the Ganga, the 120km road distance between Prayagraj and Varanasi extends to 180 km by river. This journey is ideal for observing aquatic birds, experiencing spirituality at its best, village life and traditions.

Occasionally spot the majestic Pallas’s Fish Eagle. The Pied Kingfisher, with its striking black-and-white plumage, truly is the “Zebra of the Waters”. It skims low across the water, and when it hunts, it rises, hovers momentarily, and plunges into the river to emerge with its prey. It also has this fascinating habit of tossing its catch into the air and deftly catching it again in its beak.

After making more discoveries, and covering approximately 15km by evening, at sunset watch Slender-billed Gulls gracefully maneuvering over the water, dipping to catch small fish and insects. The setting sun resembles an Orange Cream biscuit being slowly dunked into the vast, coffee-colored expanse of the Ganga.

Imagine camping overnight on a deserted islet or along the riverbanks, surrounded by a stunning landscape of sand dunes and sun-baked topsoil that looks like a giant jigsaw puzzle.

You’ll enjoy a freshly cooked dinner and drift off to sleep, serenaded by the sounds of howling wolves, crying terns, chirping crickets, and the gentle lapping of the Ganga against the banks. As the early morning mist lingers, head to Sitamadhi admiring the illumination created by the morning sun on the sand. The river, now wider than it was, will be a superhighway where one might be the only explorer sailing through the Ganges or owning it. In the deeper waters spot the Gangetic dolphins playing around the boat.

Sitamadhi, the site of Maharishi Valmiki’s ashram. This is where Lakshmana left Sita at Rama’s command, where Luv and Kush were born, and where the two brothers captured Rama’s ‘Ashwamedha’ horse. It was here that the young duo battled and defeated Rama’s army, nearly leading Lord Rama to war against his own sons. Finally, Valmiki revealed the twins’ identity and reunited the family. Sitamadhi features a ‘tirtha sthal’ for each significant event, including Lav-Kush Janam (birthplace) and Shiksha-Diksha Sthal (school), Sita Vat, Shri Samahit Sthal, Shri Ganga Tatt, and a large statue of Lord Hanuman.

The Middle Ganga river journey between Prayagraj and Varanasi is one of the most fascinating river cruise experiences in India.
Sitamadhi Valmiki Ashram near the Ganges on the Middle Ganga river journey

Mirzapur, a town renowned for its carpet industry and the remnants of British-era architecture, and observe common coots. Spend another day camping at Vindhyachal, then cross the Ganga to visit the famous Vindhyavasini temple.

Explore the town’s narrow lanes, filled with shops selling flowers, coconuts, and other items for the temple. Take time to seek the blessings of the Goddess and explore the surrounding area. Another exciting stop is the historic Chunar Fort, linked to figures such as Babar, Humayun, Sher Shah Suri, Akbar, and even Sir Warren Hastings, who had his house here. Over time, it has served as an Ammunition Depot, a reformatory for juvenile delinquents, and a jail for Indian political prisoners. Also, visit the old British cemetery with tombstones dating back to 1796.
Boats on the Ganges River at sunrise during a river cruise in India

Further downriver, enjoy the picturesque riverfront fort at Ramnagar, which also houses a museum (though not so well kept but worth a visit).

Reach Varanasi, known as Kashi, “The City of Light”. Varanasi is bounded by the River Varuna to the north and the river Asi to the south. Taking a dip at Assi Ghat, where the Ganga meets the Asi, is said to be as pious and as good as visiting all the pilgrimage sites of Hinduism. This would be the Ghat to disembark and bring an end to a long boat trip from Prayagraj to Varanasi. In Varanasi nothing is more striking and intense than Manikarnika Ghat, “The Great Cremation Ground.” It is named after the earrings that Lord Shiva dropped here during his ‘Taandav’ dance. No matter how much time one spends in Varanasi, it is less to understand this mysterious city. This trip on the Ganges offers a crash course in Hindu philosophy for the spiritually inclined, cultural experiences, craft insights, bird watching through the trip and an opportunity for non-believers to reconsider their perspectives.

Explore more River Cruise in India experiences across iconic Indian rivers.

In Short

Prayagraj to Banaras Route

The Route

The boat trip can begin in either Prayagraj (Allahabad) or Lakhnia (35 km from Prayagraj). The river meanders to Sitamadhi, which is 25 kilometers away, followed by Murdghat (10km), Vindhyachal, and Mirzapur. Consider spending the night on one of the small river islets near the Chunar fort. The final leg from Chunar to Varanasi, usually completed in a single day, includes a stop at the Ramnagar fort and ends at Assi Ghat in Varanasi.

Vegetarian meal served during the Ganga river cruise journey

Food & Beverage

Despite being on the river, a food & beverage crew (F&B crew is a small crew comprising,  a cook, helper and a server-cum-manager) travels ahead to prepare and serve at the designated meal stops. These would be fixed, pre-plated, fixed menu vegetarian meals (guests may not have ample choices though as in hotels & restaurants) . Refreshments are available at all times on the boat itself. No-Alcoholic beverage or non-vegetarian food is allowed or served, keeping in line with the religious sanctity of the river Ganges. Special requests for menu, dietary requests are well taken care of by our F&B Crew.
Luxury riverside camping on the Prayagraj to Varanasi Ganga river journey

Accommodation

Night stops will be at deluxe camps with en suite bathrooms. These camps are set up before guests arrive at designated overnight locations and include all the facilities and amenities needed for a comfortable stay. Basic electricity is available via a solar-charged backup unit and a standby generator, but please note that it is only available until bedtime and again early in the morning. The boat trip can begin in either Prayagraj (Allahabad) or Lakhnia (35 km from Prayagraj). The river meanders to Sitamadhi, which is 25 kilometers away, followed by Murdghat (10km), Vindhyachal, and Mirzapur. Consider spending the night on one of the small river islets near the Chunar fort. The final leg from Chunar to Varanasi, usually completed in a single day, includes a stop at the Ramnagar fort and ends at Assi Ghat in Varanasi.

Birdwatching and wildlife experience during the Middle Ganga river journey

Things to do

Besides all the visits to temples, historical forts, and villages there is a good dose of cultural experiences and long relaxed time on the boat. This trip is also a birdwatcher’s dream, with sights of terns, gulls, cranes, storks, egrets, swallows, kingfishers, cormorants, and ducks like the Cotton Pygmy Goose and the Red-crested Pochard. Keep an eye out for exotic wildlife like the Gangetic Dolphin and the Pallas’s Fish Eagle. Wildlife enthusiasts can also extend their trip with a visit to the Kaimur Wildlife Sanctuary at Robertsganj (a 2-hour drive from Mirzapur).

This unique Ganga river cruise route offers travellers an immersive journey through history, spirituality and riverside life in North India. To get the most out of the trip, it is recommended beginning with a two-night stay in Prayagraj to fully explore the city’s attractions. At the end of the journey, I suggest spending at least three nights in Varanasi. This will allow ample time to visit the key ghats and temples, including the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, and to gain a deeper understanding of Hinduism. While in the area, a visit to Sarnath, where Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon after his enlightenment in Bodhgaya, is highly recommended.